Burberry shocks the industry, going direct from runway to consumer

Burberry last week shocked the fashion world by announcing that, beginning in September, its runway shows would feature "wear-now" items — product that can be bought by consumers immediately. Traditionally, consumers have had to wait four to six months until catwalk collections were available in stores. Others have also been experimenting with showing in-season designs or not showing publicly at all until the season hits. But Burberry would by far be the biggest fashion house to do so. Should others follow suit, wear-now runways would dilute the influence of fashion magazines and change how buying overall is done. "The show will become a big marketing and selling tool, not for department stores or glossy magazines, but for direct communication between the brand and the men and women who want to buy it," wrote Vanessa Friedman for the New York Times. The change has been prompted by a number of new trends: the live-streaming of runway shows; the enabling of purchases straight from runways; and social media campaigns highlighting runway looks which have already turned the presentations into consumer events. Burberry chief creative and executive officer Christopher Bailey told Women's Wear Daily, "You can't talk to a customer and say, 'We're really excited, we're going to stimulate you and inspire you, but you can't touch it or feel it for another six months.'" Selling items closer to runway hoopla is also hoped to discourage consumers from waiting for the inevitable sale to buy. On the downside, smaller designers need the four to six months to secure wholesale orders and produce the goods. Burberry benefits from selling largely in its own stores and has its own factories and other means to handle quicker turnarounds. But Burberry apparently won't be promoted in the fat glossy fashion magazines detailing the season's trends. Fashion magazines also traditionally help guide store buys and drum up excitement around the trends and designer names. "It's been the critics reporting, and the buyers responding to that," Sarah Mower, the British Fashion Council's ambassador for emerging talent and a critique of Vogue, told The Guardian. "Now the consumer is the critic."

• Burberry announces changes to its runway and retail calendar - Burberry
• Burberry's Bold Move: To Make Shows Direct to Consumer - Women's Wear Daily (sub. required)
• Burberry to sell styles straight from catwalk in fashion shakeup - The Guardian
• Burberry's Latest Move Could Change the Fashion System - New York Magazine
• Burberry Announces a See Now/Buy Now System for New Collections - The New York Times (tiered sub.)