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Has luxury retailing become more recession-resistant?

Written by Tom Ryan

Photo: RetailWire

A new study from Bain & Co. concludes that, while luxury spending‘s growth is expected to slow in 2023 following two gangbuster recovery years, the sector has become “more resilient to recession.” Among the reasons, the share of top customers has been expanding, accounting for 40 percent of market value in 2022 versus 35 percent in 2021. The report states, “These consumers are hungry for unique products and experiences, putting brands’ VIC (very important client) strategies into overdrive.” Luxury already tends to outperform other retail channels during downturns because of its base of high-income consumers. A heightened focus on customer centricity in recent years was cited as “another source of resilience for the industry, as is the multi-touchpoint ecosystem that luxury has developed.” The study pointed to investments being made in digital, omnichannel practices and stores. Finally, a third factor expected to bolster growth over the next decade is luxury’s appeal to ever-younger consumers, a trend tied to a surge in wealth creation over the past few years, along with social media. Bain said Gen Z consumers are “starting to buy luxury items some three to five years earlier than Millennials did (at 15 vs. at 18–20); Gen Alpha is expected to behave in a similar way.” A recent Morgan Stanley report stated that the highest level of young adults living with their parents since the Great Depression is helping fuel a luxury boom. Bain’s bullish study comes among other reports indicating that luxury spending has been slowing due to a shift in spending toward experiences, China’s lockdowns, as well as possibly macroeconomic pressures elsewhere. The 2009 recession saw luxury brands toning down logos and flashier designs in a backlash against conspicuous consumption. The Financial Times wrote, “The same could happen in the U.S. and Europe in 2023, as the post-Covid euphoria wears off and young consumers push back on celebrities who are flaunting their wealth on social media.” Speaking at the NRF Big Show, Anish Melwani, chairman and CEO of LVMH North America, said luxury tends to be resilient, or “sticky,” because of fashion’s connection to identity. Nonetheless, he stressed, “There’s no such thing as being immune from recession.”

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