DISCUSSION

Is off-mall where it’s at?

Written by Tom Ryan

Photo: Sephora

Sephora and Bath & Body Works last week announced plans to aggressively open off-mall locations in 2021. The moves come as traffic woes impact enclosed malls and retailers turn to open-air locations that offer a social distancing advantage. Sephora’s largest store expansion in its 21-year history in the U.S. will include over 60 freestanding locations and 200 shops inside Kohl’s. The Kohl’s partnership was first announced in December. Sephora wrote, “Following a year in which e-commerce dominated the retail landscape, this move signals Sephora’s confidence in the future of the brick-and-mortar shopping experience and continued creation of welcoming spaces for all. With a focus on growing its presence in off-mall locations, the retailer also aims to make Sephora more accessible to beauty shoppers across the country.” L Brands plans to open 49 new Bath & Body Works stores in North America that are "almost entirely off-mall," while closing up to 40 mall locations. Andrew Meslow, CEO, said on L Brands’ fourth-quarter investor call that only 35 percent of Bath & Body Works’ sales now come from malls, with the remainder representing digital and off-mall. Off-mall’s profitability rates, he added, tend to be “on par or better than an average mall store” given their lower operating costs. In 2020, Bath & Body Works’ off-mall stores saw a “pretty substantial outperformance” versus mall locations, in part due to the pandemic. “As Bath & Body Works has become much more of a destination in and of itself, what we see in our off-mall locations, not surprisingly, is significantly higher conversion rates than we see in mall stores,” added Mr. Meslow. “If someone is coming into an off-mall location, they almost certainly have already decided before they made the trip that they intend to make a purchase.” Among other mall stalwarts, Gap is shuttering many mall locations in favor of strip centers and outlets, and Foot Locker is opening a number of community-driven freestanding locations. Nordstrom is aggressively expanding its Rack off-mall concept, while Macy’s is testing smaller off-mall stores. On Macy’s fourth-quarter call, Jeff Gennette, CEO, said, “Adding off-mall locations will provide customers with a fuller omni experience by providing more convenience, selection and speed whether they are shopping the digital or stores channels.”

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