
iStock.com/Robert Way
October 15, 2024
Is H&M on the Right Track To Make It Back to the Top?
H&M was arguably the leader in what is now known as “fast fashion” during the early 2000s before SHEIN took over. In order to compete and stay relevant, H&M has been fast-tracking a new course aimed at being more environmentally responsible.
As reported by Business of Fashion (BOF), H&M is repositioning itself to compete with SHEIN, which has reshaped the fashion market with its ultra-low prices and rapid production. In a recent podcast discussion, retail correspondent Cat Chen shared that H&M’s CEO Daniel Ervér is strategically targeting the middle market, aiming to provide options that are more affordable than Zara yet higher in quality than SHEIN. Ervér told Chen in a separate interview that the goal is to “appeal to both ends of the market with a mix of affordable basics and higher-end pieces.” This shift is essential for H&M as it works to clarify its identity amid increasing competition.
While SHEIN continues its rapid growth, concerns about its environmental impact have emerged, with emissions surpassing those of other major fashion brands. BoF’s senior sustainability correspondent Sarah Kent highlighted that SHEIN’s reliance on cheap materials and coal-powered manufacturing contributes significantly to its footprint. “Over the last three years, their emissions have tripled as their sales have grown hugely,” she shared.
As SHEIN faces growing scrutiny from regulators and investors, H&M sees an opportunity to reclaim market space, suggesting that established brands can still thrive in an evolving landscape.
For starters, H&M has announced a shift in its sourcing policy, declaring that it will no longer procure new down feathers for its products. Instead, the fast fashion retailer plans to rely exclusively on post-consumer recycled sources for down and feathers by the end of 2025. Currently, approximately 90% of the down and feathers used in H&M items already come from recycled materials.
According to Supply Chain Dive, a company representative emphasized that this move aligns with H&M’s ongoing commitment to sustainability and the use of responsibly sourced materials. The brand’s animal welfare policy mandates that all animal-derived materials must originate from certified farms that adhere to enhanced animal welfare standards. This decision follows pressure from advocacy group PETA, which has been campaigning against the use of down.
Furthermore, H&M has unveiled a new concept pop-up store at Selfridges in London to introduce its new premium childrenswear line, H&M Adorables. This initiative, which launched on Oct. 10, marks the brand’s first entry into department stores.
Designed with a focus on high-quality materials and timeless aesthetics, H&M Adorables features refined silhouettes while incorporating playful elements. The Selfridges pop-up utilizes wooden fixtures and a central newsstand to create an engaging shopping experience for families.
In addition to being available at Selfridges in London, the collection can also be found in Birmingham and Manchester locations, in select H&M stores, and online at Selfridges and H&M.com.
The pop-up was crafted by Open Studio Stockholm and showcases a range of garments, including soft cashmere and premium wool knitwear, as well as organic cotton blouses and waxed-cotton jackets. A wooden kiosk highlights the collection and features the H&M Adorables mascot, illustrated by British artist John Bond.
According to Retail Technology Innovation Hub, SHEIN is also actively expanding in the UK and is considering a listing on the London Stock Exchange. The company’s UK operations brought in £1.55 billion in revenue for 2023, an increase from £1.12 billion the previous year, with annual profits nearly doubling to £18.7 million from £9.8 million.
Discussion Questions
How can traditional fast fashion brands like H&M balance affordability and environmental responsibility in the face of competitors like SHEIN?
In what ways might H&M’s focus on premium offerings and sustainable sourcing reshape consumer perceptions of fast fashion and impact industry sustainability practices?
As SHEIN grows amid scrutiny over its environmental impact, what role do regulatory frameworks play in shaping the future of fast fashion and influencing established brands like H&M?
Poll
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Brian Delp
CEO, New Sega Home
Neil Saunders
Managing Director, GlobalData
Gail Rodwell-Simon
Strategic Retail Advisor, SPARX Advisory Group
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H&M has been through a difficult time. The brand has become stale and feels tired, as such it has been hit fairly hard by the slowdown in apparel and much more intense competition in the fast fashion space. It has essentially been on the back foot and has lost market share.
H&M cannot compete on price with the likes of Shein, nor can it compete on their constant churn of new products, so the niche it has to occupy is one of added-value in terms of the quality of ranges and the power of its designs. This is all about creating must-have products and being part of the social conversation in a way that H&M hasn’t been for many years.
This seems like a case of trying to be all things to all people. The market is crowded, and adding sustainable qualities isn’t sufficient for today (and tomorrow’s) consumers. They’ve added some repair patches as an attempt to somewhat offer what Patagonia, Carharrt, and some others are already doing. Meanwhile, its peers are building resale strategies.
There isn’t enough of a USP here in these initiatives. H&M needs to think harder on how to reposition itself beyond some tweaks.
In light of the fact that most of H&M’s products are made in China, Bangladesh, and India, it is hard to imagine that the company will make much of an environmental statement.
The environmental label isn’t as effective as some might think. Credible research firms report a growing fatigue with environmental claims and climate change. Green contradictions and overstatements are becoming increasingly apparent to consumers.
As I can’t find any real changes that have teeth, I expect H&M’s struggles to continue.
Low prices aside, does anyone actually believe that companies like H&M and SHEIN care about sustainability? For that matter, does any fast fashion company give it more than lip service?
Watch the documentary “Brandy Hellville & the Cult of Fast Fashion” if you want to see the effect of fast fashion on the world. It’s terrifying.
H&M is a great example of a brand trying to reinvent itself for a new time. Taking a step up in price while delivering elevated style and quality is a move in the right direction. I think the question eventually becomes how fast, how much is enough. I think the big opportunity in a sustainability context is to produce and offer less such that the value comes in the edit and a degree of exclusivity. The gamble here for any retailer trying to make a shift is that the regular priced sales will be enough to offset the lost promotional or clearance volume to maintain profitability even if there is a drop in top line sales. What if, rather than comp store sales growth, we looked at maintaining comp store margin dollars as a true measure of retailer performance in this new post-pandemic age.
Does making PETA happy increase the top and bottom line opportunities for H&M? I strongly doubt it. Does lathering your clothing assortment with sustainable labels increase the desirability of the article of clothing your might be interested in? Maybe-but the jury is still out. Patagonia has been selling clothing out of recycled materials for a while and I do not believe this line has been jumping off the shelves.
Lest I come off as a cynic, building a more sustainable supply chain IS important–however just because something is sustainably manufactured does not guarantee success in the market.
H&M’s attempt to balance affordability with environmental responsibility is necessary but will only work if they fully commit to sustainability, not just greenwashing. Competing with SHEIN’s low prices while trying to be eco-friendly is a tough spot to be in, but H&M can reshape consumer perceptions if they back up premium offerings with real impact, like cutting down waste and emissions. As for regulations, they’re crucial to crack down hard on brands like SHEIN that prioritize profits over the planet and keep polluting without consequence.