Authenticity Verified in Regional Foods
People who take pride in what they do have different ways of showing it. One route taken by some European food producers is to demand that authenticity be verified through being awarded either PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) or PGI (Protected Geographical Indication) status. Briefly, this means that the product can only be considered authentic if it comes from a specific locale. Anywhere else and it must have a different name to signify that it isn't the real McCoy. Some of the best known examples are champagne and Parmesan cheese.
Achieving the status can take many years while it is proved that products from anywhere outside the specific region are not of equivalent quality. There are also, as a recent article in The Guardian reported, principles involved.
The origins of both falafel and tabbouleh are currently being disputed in the Middle East with Lebanon and Israel insisting they were there first. Fadi Abboud, president of the Lebanese Industrialists' Association (LIA), believes "It's time to set the record straight." Apparently researchers say they have documentation to prove that 25 traditional Middle Eastern dishes hail from Lebanon and deserve PDO status. The newspaper said Mr. Abboud admits it will be difficult to copyright falafel as "Turks, Egyptians and Syrians also lay claim to it" but is confident he can prove "Lebanon commercialized hummus in the late 1950s." Unless it is made in Lebanon, everyone else will have to come up with a name change. Mr. Abboud remains adamant the case is worth pursuing, not least to address what he sees as misconceptions about Arab culture.
Meanwhile, Melton Mowbray, pork pie-makers from England's East Midlands region, are on the verge of achieving their ambition after ten years of waiting. In France, major dairy manufacturer Lactalis is closing one of its sites because of an ongoing battle over what comprises 'traditional' Camembert cheese. Earlier this year, it was officially decided that cheese sold under the name Camembert had to be made from raw milk. Lactalis refused, sales have suffered and the plant is no longer used to capacity.
Pride and principles, then. But perhaps falafel will still be falafel even by another name.
Discussion questions: Do Americans place as much importance on authenticity of food origins as other nationalities do? Should retailers be doing more to promote imported foods on the basis of their authentic origins? Can more traditional American foods capitalize on their authenticity?