Pants and measuring tape

July 3, 2024

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How Disruptive Will Weight-Loss Drugs Be for Fashion?

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While retail has often been criticized for not offering enough variety for plus-sized women, the arrival of weight-loss drugs like Ozempic, Mounjaro, and Wegovy promises to drive up complaints around smaller sizes.

A Wall Street Journal article from mid-June found weight-loss drugs driving a “hunt for smaller clothes.”

Rent the Runway CEO Jennifer Hyman told the WSJ that she has seen customers switch sizes at the highest rate in 15 years. She added that the switchers are also experimenting more with styles they might have avoided when they were heavier, including tighter and body-hugging fits and risqué looks. She said, “When you are more comfortable in your skin, you are more willing to try edgier looks.”

The drugs have been shown to help patients lose as much as 20% of their weight.

According to research from Impact Analytics, size small has become the most popular size for women on Manhattan’s Upper East Side, an area the planning and merchandising software provider described as “the epicenter of non-diabetic use of GLP-1 drugs.”

In the neighborhood, compared to 2022, sales of women’s button-down shirts in small sizes (XXS, XS, and S) have increased in 2024 by 12%, while sales of large sizes (XXL, XL, and L) have decreased by nearly 11%, according to an analysis of sales at flagship stores of fashion apparel retailers in the area. Sales of women’s button-down shirts in size small have increased from 25% of sales in 2022 to 31% so far this year.

The sizing shifts come as analysis by Trilliant Health, a healthcare analytics firm, found that nearly 44% of the city’s GLP-1 prescriptions go to New Yorkers who do not have a Type 2 diabetes diagnosis. The demographic for these drugs skews younger, and nearly 75% are female. Impact Analytics observed that the GLP-1 drug prescriptions in New York City coalesce in the affluent neighborhood of Manhattan’s Upper East Side.

Impact Analytics also noted that the findings have implications for higher-end apparel retailers that primarily serve women over the age of 30 in urban areas. On the positive side, stores may benefit from “revenge shopping,” as people who lose significant weight often need a whole new wardrobe. It also poses a threat if a hike in inaccurate sizing causes lost sales due to stockouts and excess inventories that require markdowns.

“The slimming down of America will have an enormous impact on retailers and could cost them approximately $20 million each year due to incorrect size curves,” said Prashant Agrawal, Impact Analytics’ founder and CEO. “These losses will only accelerate as more people take GLP-1 drugs for weight loss.”

A survey of about 1,000 U.S. adults last winter from the investment firm Stifel Financial found 15% of respondents already using a GLP-1 drug, with an additional 21% interested if the drugs became FDA-approved for weight loss. Citing Lululemon; Kontoor Brands, parent of Wrangler and Lee; and Dick’s Sporting Goods as potential beneficiaries, Stifel analyst Jim Duffy said in an interview with Yahoo Finance that individuals who stick with a weight-loss drug and lose considerable weight would need new clothes and “spend double the amount of apparel on an annual basis.”

According to a Gallup survey taken in March, about 15.5 million Americans, or 6% of U.S. adults, have tried injectable weight-loss drugs to reduce weight. The high cost of the drugs is cited as a barrier to greater use, but legislators are pushing to lower prices or expand insurance coverage to reduce health problems associated with obesity.

BrainTrust

"Retailers are going to need to watch sizing and purchase trends like never before, and not get caught up in historical trends as much."
Avatar of Mark Ryski

Mark Ryski

Founder, CEO & Author, HeadCount Corporation


"Leading retailers who are looking forward will be closely watching the pharmaceutical companies' quarterly reports for trends…"
Avatar of Perry Kramer

Perry Kramer

Managing Partner, Retail Consulting Partners


"If every apparel manufacturer now starts producing more in tiny sizes, those of us who wear size 10+ will be collateral damage."
Avatar of Georganne Bender

Georganne Bender

Principal, KIZER & BENDER Speaking


Discussion Questions

Do you see the increasing acceptance of weight-loss drugs creating major challenges and opportunities for apparel sellers?

Will prices come down and the appeal be strong enough to drive widespread usage?

What advice would you have for apparel players on potential adjustments?

Poll

8 Comments
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Neil Saunders

We have been tracking this via our consumer panel and while sample sizes are small, those on weight loss drugs have lifted their spending on fashion. However, a lot of this is simply because changed body shapes necessitate the purchase of new clothing. There is some initial evidence that those who have lost weight are engaging with fashion more and making more adventurous style choices, but we need to see how this plays out over the longer term before reaching definitive conclusions. However, if the prevalence of weight loss drugs continues to grow then many retailers will need to update their size selling curves when range planning.

Craig Sundstrom
Craig Sundstrom

Major challenge? No (I would put that onus on the food & beverage industry, since I’m one of those old fashioned sorts who equates eating/drinking a lot with weight gain, and – presumably – people consuming less might prove an existential crisis for some providers). It may lead to a change in the distribution of sizes – hasn’t that been going on thruout history? – but not some sudden crisis they can’t cope with,

Dick Seesel
Dick Seesel

Craig makes a good point about size distribution. Retailers doing business on a national scale have figured out (at least the smart ones have) that “one size scale doesn’t fit all.” Some regions are better sellers of large and extended sizes, others not so much. (I live in Wisconsin, enough said.) The effect of new weight loss drugs is likely to be evolutionary, not overnight — especially given product shortages — so retailers and their suppliers will have some time to respond accordingly.

Georganne Bender
Georganne Bender

Who are you kidding, “size small has become the most popular size for women on Manhattan’s Upper East Side”? Have you been there? Tiny sizes have been de rigueur there forever.

It’s already a nightmare for women who do not wear sample sizes to find clothing they like. If every apparel manufacturer now starts producing more in tiny sizes, those of us who wear size 10+ will be collateral damage. It would be nice for fashion to be able to serve both customers equally but I am not holding my breath.

Brad Halverson

Neil notes the increased size selling curve when range planning, which is important. Another point of evidence to this is a retailer we know who sells fashionable womens clothing at stores across the US. They’ve shared how clothing shifts are bolder when a customer wants to make a change in how they feel inside, and how they are presented compared to their old self. Often a new look means they test, push the boundaries to new styles. So if weight-loss drugs are driving more customers into the store, retailers need to be ready to watch for what is a fashion trend vs a fashion blip from a closet/sizing update.

Mark Ryski

Given the success of the weight-loss drugs thus far, it’s hard to see it do anything but accelerate in the future. There’s no doubt that these drugs will become significantly more widespread as the cost comes down and the comfort level with taking these medications increase. Wide-spread weight-loss is a good thing, and the excitement of buying new clothes to fit a new body will create opportunities for apparel retailers. However, retailers are going to need to watch sizing and purchase trends like never before, and not get caught up in historical trends as much. 

Perry Kramer

It will clearly change the size ranges in planning and allocation. Leading retailers who are looking forward will be closely watching the pharmaceutical companies quarterly reports for trends on new customers and customers who are in maintenance mode. Retailers also need to monitor the insurance companies who continually are changing the requirements for these drugs. This combined with retailers advanced Omni-Channel capabilities to fulfill centrally or from other stores when an item is not available locally will be a combination of future changes in the merchandising mix.

Gail Rodwell-Simon
Gail Rodwell-Simon

Managing and monitoring the size curves and style preferences of fashion brands sounds like a great AI use case as the risk is mitigated if brands and retailers can quantify and anticipate the shifts faster and beyond the normal trends and fashion cycles. Like Georgeann, I hope they don’t all expand production on the XXS and start dropping the L and XL+ options.

8 Comments
Oldest
Newest Most Voted
Inline Feedbacks
View all comments
Neil Saunders

We have been tracking this via our consumer panel and while sample sizes are small, those on weight loss drugs have lifted their spending on fashion. However, a lot of this is simply because changed body shapes necessitate the purchase of new clothing. There is some initial evidence that those who have lost weight are engaging with fashion more and making more adventurous style choices, but we need to see how this plays out over the longer term before reaching definitive conclusions. However, if the prevalence of weight loss drugs continues to grow then many retailers will need to update their size selling curves when range planning.

Craig Sundstrom
Craig Sundstrom

Major challenge? No (I would put that onus on the food & beverage industry, since I’m one of those old fashioned sorts who equates eating/drinking a lot with weight gain, and – presumably – people consuming less might prove an existential crisis for some providers). It may lead to a change in the distribution of sizes – hasn’t that been going on thruout history? – but not some sudden crisis they can’t cope with,

Dick Seesel
Dick Seesel

Craig makes a good point about size distribution. Retailers doing business on a national scale have figured out (at least the smart ones have) that “one size scale doesn’t fit all.” Some regions are better sellers of large and extended sizes, others not so much. (I live in Wisconsin, enough said.) The effect of new weight loss drugs is likely to be evolutionary, not overnight — especially given product shortages — so retailers and their suppliers will have some time to respond accordingly.

Georganne Bender
Georganne Bender

Who are you kidding, “size small has become the most popular size for women on Manhattan’s Upper East Side”? Have you been there? Tiny sizes have been de rigueur there forever.

It’s already a nightmare for women who do not wear sample sizes to find clothing they like. If every apparel manufacturer now starts producing more in tiny sizes, those of us who wear size 10+ will be collateral damage. It would be nice for fashion to be able to serve both customers equally but I am not holding my breath.

Brad Halverson

Neil notes the increased size selling curve when range planning, which is important. Another point of evidence to this is a retailer we know who sells fashionable womens clothing at stores across the US. They’ve shared how clothing shifts are bolder when a customer wants to make a change in how they feel inside, and how they are presented compared to their old self. Often a new look means they test, push the boundaries to new styles. So if weight-loss drugs are driving more customers into the store, retailers need to be ready to watch for what is a fashion trend vs a fashion blip from a closet/sizing update.

Mark Ryski

Given the success of the weight-loss drugs thus far, it’s hard to see it do anything but accelerate in the future. There’s no doubt that these drugs will become significantly more widespread as the cost comes down and the comfort level with taking these medications increase. Wide-spread weight-loss is a good thing, and the excitement of buying new clothes to fit a new body will create opportunities for apparel retailers. However, retailers are going to need to watch sizing and purchase trends like never before, and not get caught up in historical trends as much. 

Perry Kramer

It will clearly change the size ranges in planning and allocation. Leading retailers who are looking forward will be closely watching the pharmaceutical companies quarterly reports for trends on new customers and customers who are in maintenance mode. Retailers also need to monitor the insurance companies who continually are changing the requirements for these drugs. This combined with retailers advanced Omni-Channel capabilities to fulfill centrally or from other stores when an item is not available locally will be a combination of future changes in the merchandising mix.

Gail Rodwell-Simon
Gail Rodwell-Simon

Managing and monitoring the size curves and style preferences of fashion brands sounds like a great AI use case as the risk is mitigated if brands and retailers can quantify and anticipate the shifts faster and beyond the normal trends and fashion cycles. Like Georgeann, I hope they don’t all expand production on the XXS and start dropping the L and XL+ options.

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