
Image Courtesy of NRF Big Show 2025 – Jason Dixson Photography
January 23, 2025
Macy’s Says Its ‘Bold New Chapter’ Plans Are Working, Expanding ‘First 50’ Blueprint to 125 Stores in 2025
At the recent 2025 NRF Big Show held in New York City, beyond the hustle and bustle of the convention floor filled with colorful booths and even more colorful personalities, a variety of panel discussions took place centered on the ever-changing nature of the retail business.
And what better example of a business in the process of fundamental change than Macy’s, a brand that is currently remodeling its operations from the bottom up?
During a discussion between Tony Spring (CEO and chairman of Macy’s), Olivier Bron (CEO of Bloomingdale’s), and Maly Bernstein (CEO of Bluemercury), the trio covered ground ranging from the success of the company’s Bold New Chapter plans to the nature of retail shopping as a therapeutic experience for many customers.
Joined by moderator Courtney Reagan, senior retail reporter for CNBC, the three executives settled in for what would be an enlightening talk about the company’s successes and failures, as well as territory nearby.
Macy’s Says ‘Bold New Chapter’ Is Paying Off
Kicking off the chat with an analysis of how the company’s retooling plans (under the moniker of “A Bold New Chapter”) were going, Spring suggested that he was very pleased with the direction things were currently headed.
“A Bold New Chapter was our opportunity to reimagine the Macy’s portfolio, which does include Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury. For the Macy’s brand, it’s strengthening the Macy’s nameplate. It was listening to 60,000 customers that we talked to who were both active and inactive,” he said.
“What were they looking for in a shopping experience with Macy’s? They wanted a better merchandise assortment that was both private brands and market brands. They wanted a better service experience that was additional colleagues in the store and a better visual presentation. They wanted a better modern take on marketing and a better balance in our media mix between digital and traditional marketing. They were looking for a quicker supply chain. They wanted product to be arriving faster when they ordered it. They wanted things to arrive accurately. Some of the fundamentals of retail,” he added.
Moderator Reagan then prompted Spring to talk about how Macy’s was addressing the demand to satisfy the aforementioned fundamentals of retail, and the CEO happily obliged, speaking of the success of the company’s First 50 blueprint. Under these guidelines, starting with 50 locations in the Macy’s stores portfolio, everything from merchandising to the customer experience was purposefully stepped up with a renewed intensity.
As a result, Spring noted, the First 50 project stores saw three consecutive quarters of strong growth.
Bloomingdale’s Is Repositioning the Brand From ‘Aspirational to Luxury’
Reagan then transitioned to ask Bloomingdale’s CEO Bron how the luxury arm of Macy’s is doing and what areas he believes can be improved.
“We can always do better. I think in line with the Bold New Chapter strategy for Macy’s Inc., we have our Dream Big strategy for Bloomingdale’s, and the question is how hard — and how far — we can push the boundary, where can we push the Bloomingdale’s brand forward?” Bron asked, posing the question before turning to answer.
“That’s what we’re working on right now. I think we can do a little bit more in terms of customer experience and brand experience. We can do better. We can keep improving the service in the stores. This is what we’re doing, and we have to push the repositioning of the brand from aspirational to luxury,” he concluded.
Spring Rejects Notion of the Department Store as Tired or Outdated
As Reagan pivoted back to Spring, she posed the question as to whether a savvy modern consumer might perceive the department store as a tired format.
“Why do I need a department store anymore? I know the brands, I can go right to those brands online. So why does somebody need to come to Macy’s?” Reagan asked as a hypothetical.
Spring was quick to respond, emphasizing the dynamic nature of his ideal experience concerning such a potential challenge.
“I think the department store format, if you like the name marketplace better, maybe that helps people to kind of reimagine the potential of a marketplace or a department store. If I told you we could be in any business we want to be, you’d say that’s a pretty exciting piece of opportunity. You’re not limited to just men’s, or to women’s, or to kids, or to home. If I said we could do it in either channel, physical or digital. If I said we could basically expand any business, or contract any business, based on the opportunity that we saw that season. So, if men’s is a little softer, and women’s is doing well, we can fund into those things with more people, more advertising, more inventory,” he explained.
“I think the key to remember is that the department store, essentially, is the curation of choice. We all love choice, right? I don’t want you to tell me what I have to have, but please don’t give me that endless aisle that goes on forever. I want the best style. I want the number of choices that I, as a consumer, think are appropriate — and I want them fast. I think the department store is well positioned to be able to offer that, and the three of us together — looking at Bloomingdale’s, and Macy’s, and then the specialty niche of Bluemercury — I think gives the consumer so many options, but done in a way that makes it easier to shop,” Spring concluded.
Bluemercury’s Store Success Is About Customization, Fun, and an ‘Uncover to Discover’ Ethos
Bluemercury CEO Bernstein highlighted the role of a highly personalized and customized customer experience as being central to the brand’s success, particularly at the store level.
When asked by Reagan as to how the brand was looking to expand and broaden its demographic base, Bernstein gestured toward a dedication from frontline workers to employ empathy and inquisitiveness to really reach each customer on an individual level, assessing needs and desires and responding with appropriate solutions.
“At Bluemercury, what’s so fun is that we customize the beauty plan for you, and what we do is we ask you a whole bunch of questions. Which we call ‘uncover to discover’ what is it that you need,” Bernstein began.
“So whether you’re a man, whether you’re younger, whether you’re older, we really focus on understanding you, your needs, your aspirations, and then we curate using our assortment that’s so driven on performance, so driven on making sure that you get the results that you’re looking for. That’s how we do it, we tailor it for every customer that walks through our door,” she added.
Spring, Bron, and Bernstein Speak to the Current Mood of the American Consumer
In closing, Reagan asked all three execs what they thought the current mood of the American consumer might be.
Bernstein summed up her response in one word, “hopeful,” and Bron followed suit with “dreaming,” before expanding further. “They want to dream, they want to be excited… They want something special,” he added.
Spring gave a balanced answer that evoked the duality of moods common to the U.S. consumer.
“Excited, you know, I think they’re nervous, but they’re excited because they’re sitting on the cusp of one of the most interesting times in their lives, where technology is meeting humanity, where opportunities kind of come along,” he said. “And at the same time, you see the downside of what happens when the dark web is more pervasive in people’s lives. So it’s just… how do we have the protections [in place] so that people can truly enjoy this extraordinary moment in time?”
What’s Next for Macy’s?
Other topics of conversation included the question of whether Macy’s was considering the spin-off or sale of Bloomingdale’s or Bluemercury. Spring indicated that this was not his desired path forward, as the brands offered “synergies that are leveraged between the three brands, between warehousing, legal, finance, back-end operations, joint brand negotiation. There’s just so much opportunity for us to kind of leverage the scale of the portfolio.”
He added, “The key is for the customer to find something special, something different at Macy’s, Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury, and at the same time for us to continue to try to make the case to the public markets that this three-brand portfolio has more value than we are showing today.”
Macy’s CEO also spoke about the centrality of taking care of the customer to ensure the company’s continued success.
“Remember, we’re in the retail therapy business, essentially we have folks that want to come in and escape their everyday life in some way, shape, or form… We are there to try to create the kind of retail experience I think that people truly enjoy, and that’s why I was never a believer coming out of the pandemic that it was going to be a digital-only business. It was going to be a digital and physical business where the two actually talk to one another and give the choice back to the consumer about what is best for you,” Spring said.
Success could be in the cards for Macy’s, at least concerning its aforementioned focus areas.
According to a recent press release, Macy’s First 50 stores, Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury all reported positive comparable sales in its latest Q4 update. Meanwhile, sales remained relatively flat for non-First 50 stores, as well for the company’s non-go-forward locations.
“Our Bold New Chapter strategy continues to gain traction, putting us on track to achieve our second quarter of sequential comparable sales improvement,” Spring stated in comments attached to the report. “Reflecting ongoing positive response to Macy’s First 50 locations, we are excited to expand initiatives to an additional 75 Macy’s locations in Fiscal 2025. We are well-positioned to build momentum with a stronger Macy’s store fleet and our teams focused on the successful execution of the three pillars of our Bold New Chapter strategy.”
Overall, Q4 sales are expected to rest between $7.8 to $8 billion, roughly in line or slightly below the low end of previously issued projections.
“We said 2024 was a transition and investment year, and I look as we’re getting ready to close the year and close the quarter, I’m pleased with the progress that we’re making,” Spring stated during the NRF session. “We’re also mindful of the fact that we’ve learned a lot along the way and we’ll go into 2025 more informed, more educated, better prepared to return Macy’s Inc. to sustainable, profitable growth.”
Discussion Questions
Are department stores, including Macy’s, doing enough to dodge the label of being an outdated or tired place to shop?
What is the current mood of the American consumer in your view?
Will Macy’s focus on its First 50 (now First 125), Bloomingdale’s, and Bluemercury continue to pay off as 2025 develops, or will progress face significant headwinds?
Poll
BrainTrust
Melissa Minkow
Director, Retail Strategy, CI&T
Anil Patel
Founder & CEO, HotWax Commerce
Cathy Hotka
Principal, Cathy Hotka & Associates
Recent Discussions







Two things are true. First, the First 50 stores are outperforming the rest of the chain. In the latest quarter, overall comparable sales at Macy’s declined by 3.0%. At First 50 stores, comparable sales increased by 1.9%. That delta seems to be growing over time. Second, F50 stores have better levels of customer satisfaction, and associates are also way more engaged. Now, the caveats. The F50 stores tend to be in better locations, so there will be a natural outperformance. Second, Macy’s needs to deliver more quarters of good growth and strengthen the comparable growth rates for this to become really convincing. But, at least Tony Spring and his team are correcting past mistakes. They have always said this is the first step on a long journey, and they’re right – there’s lot more work to do yet. Good luck to them!
Will the customer who’s used to the kind of instant gratification that online shopping offers have the patience to walk through a department store? The jury is out.
I believe that Macy’s still finds it difficult to remain competitive despite the positive tone we heard at NRF.
They recently announced that they will close 150 of their lower-performing stores over the next three years as part of a Bold New Chapter initiative.
Department stores have lost market share to e-commerce and other retailers for at least 20 or so years, so this move is long overdue.
My view is that Macy’s could adopt the strategy of enhancing in-store shopping experience to better compete with e-commerce. They could follow through on focusing on exclusive partnerships with popular brands to draw in customers seeking unique products.
macy*s? Yeah, I think I’ve heard that name…. I’m sure we all wish them well, but I’d like to take this opportunity to engage in a bit of (hopefully) forgiveable threadjacking by acknowledging the macy*s than will never need to worry about this…the – once great, and, with one exception, former flagship – downtown stores that didn’t survive the latest cull: Los Angeles (Broadway), Sacramento, Philadelphia (John Wanamaker), and Brooklyn (Abraham & Strauss). For those wondering what’s left, and excluding the foredoomed SF store: Salt Lake City, Chicago, Boston, Washington, and NYC; Pessimists – wags? – who once engaged in gallows humor to speculate that one day you’d be able to “count ’em on one hand”, we are there.
If you read the focuses/what Spring stated the 60k consumers wanted in order to launch this initiative, they’re all vitally important (and frankly table stakes) for any retail business to be successful. I hope this is the minimum and just the beginning because this is all really just what it takes to survive. In order for them to thrive, they’ll have to go beyond what was shared in this article. I think that’s what Spring was saying, but I’d love to see the basics nailed so that innovation can happen.
Macy’s has been touting turnaround strategies at NRF for a decade. And yet, here we are again. The department store business has a terrible paradigm that they’re trying to navigate: They need to make significant changes to their business model to stay relevant, changes that are likely to alienate their core customer, while at the same time, their core customers are aging out (to put it nicely). Unless department stores can figure out how to replace the customers they’re losing to “natural causes,” I’m not optimistic about the future of this segment.
Today’s poll asked: Are department stores, including Macy’s, doing enough to dodge the label of being an outdated or tired place to shop?
I voted “no”. But the real question should be: CAN department stores do enough to dodge the outdated label? My answer is a “no.” Department stores are facing Product Life Cycle Trends.
Sounds like you’re a “no”-it-all Gene.
🙂
I think tony Spring gives us a great definition of a department store…”the curation of choice”. The definition worked many decades ago and it works today. The difference is that the bar is a lot higher these days for in-store execution. Storytelling. Problem solving. Localized offerings that are specifically NOT about endless aisle. A sea of racks with sale signs on top just isn’t going to cut it any more.
My local Macy’s (Holyoke,MA) looks leaps ad bounds better than it did in recent years. Inventory levels and fixture density are dramatically lower that in the past. It’s not longer a question of how much inventory can be packed onto the floor. It’s a question of how little inventory can be put out without the floor looking downright vacant. Macy’s has the space and bandwidth to execute great story telling. I think Tony Spring is setting the right stage. Now the planners and buyers have to figure out how to execute with great localized curation.
Van Maur here in the Midwest seems to be making all the right moves – localized, not overextending themselves, merchandising and service levels at the level we used to expect back in the 1980s. I was in Copenhagen last summer and Tokyo the year before (places that also have ecommerce and discount stores), and their department stores are doing just fine! I took my 18-year old daughter through Magasin du Nord and pointed out how everything they were doing was right out of the Dayton’s playbook from when I was a teenager. I think the factor is 30 years of mergers and leveraged buyouts that have replaced merchandising and visionary curation with bean counting and venal compensation.
Macy’s and other department stores are still fighting an uphill battle to shake the “outdated” image. They’re trying to modernize, but it’s hard to change the perception when many consumers now prefer the convenience of online shopping. While the First 50 stores are showing some promise, it’s unclear whether expanding this concept will be enough to keep Macy’s relevant in the long run. As for the current mood of consumers, I think they’re a mix of excited but cautious. They want something special, but there’s a lot of uncertainty about how sustainable this change will be for Macy’s in 2025.
I don’t think online shopping is the issue, Macy’s is actually decent in that space. It’s an issue of the relevance of the brands they carry and the younger shoppers ditching the malls and their grandmother’s department stores. They don’t have the same experiences with these stores, and as a result, the loyalty isn’t there. Today, it’s about outlet malls and influencer marketing, smaller stores, and fresh brands that move quickly. Department stores have had serious challenges reaching younger customers. As Gene eloquently said in the post above- it’s a product life cycle issue.
As an alum, I am rooting for Macy’s. However, I’m not sure I would wager a big bet that they can turn the ship quickly enough. I’ve had the experience of a top50 store, and the commonplace crappy ones. I will shop at Top50; the others, I walk through the aisles feeling very meh and leaving empty handed. The Top50 is what every store should be and should have always been. I understand the why; nevertheless, I feel a sadness about all the stores closing for a variety of reasons, including that many of these stores were destinations for decades for communities and families.